We used to be locked in to the "tap" handshake length, and now we can
handle better handshakes like "ntor".
Resolves ticket 18998.
I checked that relay_send_command_from_edge() behaves fine when you
hand it a payload with length 0. Clients behave fine too, since current
clients remain strict about the required length in the rendezvous2 cells.
(Clients will want to become less strict once they have an alternate
format that they're willing to receive.)
